I am renovating

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I am renovating

Some window experts are talking about installations into the existing wooden box, others want to remove them. What do you recommend ?

Each dealer has their personal preference and every renovation has specific needs, nevertheless you should know that:

Installing a window into the existing box does generally a cleaner job mostly due to the fact that it minimizes bad surprises that can occur in any renovation project.

Installing windows into existing boxes, generally, do not damage interior casings around windows.

A good installer will replace any piece of wood that seems rotten during the installation.

Two caulking beads must be applied on the outside; one between the window and the flat aluminium flashing that usually covers up your frame and another one between the aluminium flashing and your outside cladding.

The removal of the window box implies more important carpentry work.

Starting from the frame of the house assures a more homogenous installation and a more integrated final job.

Only one caulking bead should be necessary (in most cases), between the window and the exterior finish.

I would like to go to a dealer with the rough measurement of my existing windows to have an idea of the price of new windows. How do I take those measurements ?

We suggest measuring the windows from the inside of the interior casings. A detail that can be useful for the dealer is to know if your windows have a brick moulding (or outside casing) on the outside, surrounding the window.

What do the performance numbers that a lot of windows manufacturers show on their brochures really mean ?

These numbers give an idea of the value of the window to the followings tests:

A= Air, the scale is from 1 to 3.

B= Water penetration, the scale is from 1 to 7.

C= Wind load resistance (The capacity of a window to withstand hurricane or extreme winds.), the scale is from 1 to 5.

These tests must be passed in an accredited laboratory and are essential to obtain an acceptation number from the CCMC (Canadian Construction Materials Centre) http://www.nrc.ca/ccmc/home_e.shtml .

An important point to verify when buying windows is to be sure that it is the manufacturer of the window itself (and not the PVC extruder) that went through the testing process. That is a way to be sure that the window you're buying will be identical to the one that has been tested.

For a couple of years, Fenplast does some testing on brand new windows randomly taken from the production line, just to make sure that the "regular" windows will be as efficient as the one being tested.

How can I evaluate a proposition from a dealer who wants to replace my windows ?

Window renovation isn't different from other renovation projects. You should ask for references from the dealer you're interested in doing business with. Don't be shy to ask the dealer for some references in your vicinity.

I would like to know if the space between the window and the house must be isolated with mineral wool or with an injected urethane ?

The number of years in business and the quality of the presentation he gave you are clues you can count on.

I’d like to know if the cavity between the window and the house framing should be insulated with mineral wool or injected urethane?

The two solutions are until now, the only ones used for residential purposes. Both carry advantages and disadvantages.

We should advise you against the use of the kind of urethane used. It should be a non-expensive type and should keep all its flexibility (like a marshmallow) for a number of years. To our knowledge, most urethane sold in hardware stores don’t fill that criteria and can damage your windows in a permanent way.

What is the ER scale ?

Let us specify that the ER value is based on several factors, including a product's U value, potential solar heat gain coefficient and airtightness.
The ER scale determines the Energy Rating value required for a product to qualify in any given zone. It can be used to compare the overall energy-saving performance of different ENERGY STAR qualified windows and patio doors. This scale ensures that even Canadians living in the colder areas of the country can base their choice on the most energy-efficient products available. A negative ER value refers to an ENERGY STAR qualified product that has not been reviewed since the new CSA standards were adopted in 2004. Use the following formula to convert negative ER values: Negative ER value (pre-2004) + 33 = Approximate current ER value.